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Tips and Techniques
[ General tips ] [ Construction Tips ][ Engine Tips ]
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- Tips and Articles from Various Email Groups!
- Aerodynamics
Center (by The Selkirk Aviation College)
If you come across any additional tips that you would
like to share with everyone please email them to me at this site.
I can be reached at rcmodeling@gmail.com.
Please feel free to contact me so we can talk about one of our favorite
hobbies!
Cover Iron Cleaning
Ever ironed covering and found out that your iron was too hot and some of the covering actually melted on the iron? Its a pain, especially when your doing multicolored coverings. A wise old man told me to heat the iron up to full heat and rub the face of it with Bounce or any other dryer static remover. WOW! It works great!!!!!. Now there's no more hastles of transfering different colors on unwanted areas of your plane.
Chris Thomas |
Instant Gap Filler
To fill small gaps,instead of filling with the usual putties etc. and waiting for them to dry, place some medium ca in the gap,then place a small amount of baking soda on and watch it set before your eyes.It is the strongest fill I have come accross and is instant.
Trevor Williamson |
How's your Nicads?
The Nicad batteries that we use in our Transmitters and Aircraft wear out with time. If you have a battery pack that is more than 3 years old you should be keeping a close check on it by cycling every month. If it is 5 years old or older you should replace it and be sure to properly dispose of the old cells. So - how do we tell the age of our batteries? Most Futaba battery packs and individual Sanyo battery cells (which most OEM radio manufactures use) have a 2 letter
date code stamped somewhere on the pack or cell. The first letter of the code is the year of manufacture and the second letter is the month of manufacture. 1996 = "A", 1997 = "B", 1998 = "C", 1999 = "D", 2000 = "E", etc….. January = "A", February = "B", March = "C", etc…… So - if you have a battery or pack with a date code of "CB" it was manufactured in February of 1998 - probably still
OK but keep a close check on it. The pack in my 8UAF transmitter was "ZF" or June of 1995 so I replaced it. I found one pack with a date code of "WC" which translates to 1992 - replace that one without question.
Happy flying
Ted Brindle |
Dual Tank Setup
1) Engine draws from tank #1 clunk.
2) Overflow on tank #1 is connected to tank #2 clunk.
3) Tank #2 overflow goes to open air or muffler pressure.
4) With this setup, tank #2 completely empties before tank
#1 drains at all.
One advantage of this setup is that for the first half of
your flight time flat spins etc are much safer since you're
very unlikely to suck up any air bubbles.
Barry A. Boes |
Any Old
Bikes Lying Around?
A good thing to use
for pushrods are bicycle spokes. You can find
old used wheels for next to nothing andtake out the spokes.
They are threaded and come in different sizes.
Littlewing |
Remedy for A Scratched Canopy
Scratched canopys? Theres a great product made by Meguiar Co. Their clear plastic cleaner... it works... and polishes your canopy at the same time... The product is sold by NAPA auto parts stores..... Meguiar's inc. irvine ca. 92713 usa.... i hope you try this, i was truely amazed......
Happy flying
Chris Allen |
Remedy for Poor Idle
You can get the idle problem solved simply. Put a one way in line choke valve (a couple of $ in any hobby store) between the muffler and the tank. That way, when the engine is at full throttle and there is good back pressure in the muffler, that pressure is also in the tank. When you idle, the choke prevents the air from the tank to go back to the muffler, therefore maintaining the same high pressure in the tank as before. This WILL solve any fuel draw problems at idle.
Happy flying
George Brod |
Ragland Student Training Technique
| This technique allows the student to learn from an experienced instructor without a buddy box. |
Developed by Geistware of Indiana© ., 1999.
Updated July 25, 2006
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